Town of Vinalhaven, Maine

“Wait,” you might say. “Isn’t Vinalhaven an island?’” And indeed, it is.

However, the title above isn’t wrong, either. Vinalhaven is the town’s name, but the island itself is also so named, although together with its smaller counterpart, North Haven, the two are known as the Fox Islands. And despite being 15 miles off the mainland, the islands are quite accessible—you just need to pad your travel time a bit, depending on how you choose to get there.

If you are coming from the south, your best bet is to take the ferry out of Rockland Harbor, where you can just buy a ticket at the terminal (all purchases are round-trip) and walk right on. If you want to bring your car, though, be sure to make a reservation. The ride to Vinalhaven is an hour and 15 minutes—and if the weather is accommodating, you’re in for a real treat.

Sit on the top deck, soak up the sun, and take in the breathtaking views of the Penobscot Bay unfurling before you. For a view from an altogether different angle, give the folks at Penobscot Island Air a call to charter one of their Cessnas; you won’t be tied to the ferry schedule, the trip is faster—and you’ll forget all about the price difference when you get a look out the window.

Exploring Vinalhaven Maine

No matter how you get there, though, once you step foot on Vinalhaven, you’re not going to want to leave any time soon. And while the island is steeped in classic New England seaside charm and just the right amount of isolation to be alluring, Vinalhaven still has amenities to offer, drawing visitors and seasonal homeowners back year after year, nearly quadrupling the island’s regular population (around 1,100) every summer.

These hardy year-round residents—many of them in the lobstering industry—are the lifeblood of the island, keeping the few non-seasonal businesses afloat and tending to the day-to-day warp and weft of island life.

Take note, however: When you come to Vinalhaven, do not expect to have a crowded main drag lined with chain hotels and quaint bed and breakfasts to choose from for your stay. There is only one on the island, and it’s seasonal. The Tidewater Motel, perched on a bridge over the tidal river to Carver’s Pond, offers breakfast and clean, comfortable rooms—some with full kitchens—and you have to book far in advance to ensure a room for the night.

But take heart: Many folks rent out their homes through Airbnb and Vinalhaven Vacation Rentals—so don’t worry if you can’t get a room at the Tidewater (local tip: you can rent bikes and kayaks at the Tidewater, whether or not you are staying there).

Outdoor Activities

Whether you’re on-island for just a day trip or the whole summer, you won’t be at a loss for things to do on Vinalhaven. The island is literally covered with Vinalhaven Land Trust preserves, and whether you’re looking to sit, swim, stroll, or row, you’ll have options.

Lane’s Island, a local favorite, is accessible by bridge and boasts panoramic views of the Atlantic and the neighboring islands, as well as a picnic area and cozy beach. The Armbrust Hill Town Park is another popular spot; this abandoned quarry site offers a playground as well as trails leading up to spectacular views from Trolley Cliff.

Maine is well-known for its less-than-hospitable water temperatures, and being on an island 15 miles out to sea doesn’t warm things up any. So, if you want to swim, do as the locals do: Head out to one of the old granite quarries for a more comfortable aquatic foray.

Shopping and Dining

Lawson’s and Booth’s Quarries—also both under the protection of the Land Trust—are both just a short bike ride from the center of town, so don your swimming trunks, pack a picnic with some amazing lobster rolls from the Greet’s Eats food truck just off the ferry (and perhaps some fudge from the Vinalhaven Candy Company for dessert), and be on your way.

Like Greet’s Eats and Vinalhaven Candy, many businesses on-island are seasonal, and your dining and shopping options begin to dwindle after Labor Day—like Dot and Millie’s, for example.

This tiny, dinner-only delight offers small plates, salads, and entrees made with locally sourced ingredients and a lot of love. The Homeport Family Restaurant—a comfort-food, family-style type of place—is open year-round, but only for lunch.

The Sand Bar, however, offers its pub-fare-style menu all year for lunch, dinner, and cocktails. Vinalhaven also features a small but full-service grocery store in town, the Carver’s Harbor Market, for those of you that prefer to stay put and do your own cooking (another local tip: keep an eye out for folks selling fresh-caught oysters in the lot across from Carver’s, in-season).

For local produce and meats—as well as kitchen gifts and fresh-baked desserts—try the Creelman Farm Store. And if you’re on the prowl for a one-of-a-kind gift (the type that you won’t know what it is until you set eyes on it), there are shopping options of every ilk—some that keep their doors open throughout the year, as well.

In the more hospitable months, try Marston House (antiques, fabrics, ceramics, and much more) or Phineas Fogge (clothing, gifts). For year-round shopping or browsing, stop into the New Era Gallery (paintings, photography, sculpture, jewelry, pottery) or The Island’s Closet (gifts, electronics, clothing, hardware…and if they don’t have it, they’ll get it for you).

Or, for the gift that gives back, pick up a gently-used book, audiobook, puzzle, DVD, or board game at Second Hand Prose, where the proceeds of your purchase support the Vinalhaven Public Library.

Vinalhaven is the epitome of quintessential Maine character and culture—one that seems to have embraced the new ideas that infuse the town with the constant arrival of newcomers, be they permanent or seasonal.

And one thing is for certain: Once you’ve been awakened by the distant sounds of the lobster boats starting up in the bay, the gulls crying overhead, the clang-clang of the buoys, and the cars rolling off the ramp of the morning’s first ferry, Vinalhaven will have already worked its way into your very veins—and you’ll find yourself longing to return before you’ve even left.

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